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Food Stuffs

Cooking at home. Not much here at the moment, just some notes and favorite recipes.

Random Bites

Organic baked beans: We've tried some "organic" baked beans in the past, but found ourselves longing for some of the flavor of the non-organic varieties (such as Bush). We were delighted to find ShariAnn's Maple & Onion Organic Baked Beans, which had the flavor we craved.

The beef hot dogs from Yorkshire Farms that come five to a pack ("Deli style") are a bit too large to fit in any normal-sized hot-dog roll. They do have a wonderful, spicy flavor, but the casing is thick and therefore somewhat chewy. We have tried both the all-beef and pork/beef blend versions (eight to a pack) and prefer them to the Deli style.

Unlike many people I know, I never liked macaroni and cheese as a kid. Anne has introduced me to a mac & cheese that I love: Annie's Homegrown Macaroni & Cheese (are you surprised I love it with a name like that?). My favorite flavor is Shells and White Cheddar. Now that's comfort food--no matter what your age.

Speaking of cheese, we've become fans of a sharp, white cheddar we received as a gift. It's called Cougar Gold and is manufactured by the students in the Food Science and Human Nutrition program at the Washington State University Creamery. It's one of the best cheeses I've ever eaten, and if you like cheddar, there's none better.

Recipes

Raised Waffles

This recipe came originally from The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham and is the best waffle recipe we've ever found. The batter is quite thin, however, and we found it doesn't work well in our waffle iron (a Philips HD4482). We had a problem with gaps or voids on the tops of our waffles. Our variation simply decreases the amount of milk in order to make a thicker batter and makes a few other small changes. This recipe uses yeast and so requires time for the batter to rise. We simply make it the night before.

 

  • 2 cups milk, warmed
  • 1/2 cup (one 1/4-pound stick) melted unsalted butter (if you use salted butter, omit the teaspoon of salt)
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 package dry yeast
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda

 

1. Choose a large mixing bowl to allow room for the batter to rise. Put 1/2 cup of the warmed milk, the sugar, and the yeast into the bowl. (In comparison to Marion's version, we substituted milk for water here and add the sugar at this point rather than later. Warm liquid and sugar are a standard proofing solution.)

 

2. Add the remaining milk, butter, flour, and salt to the yeast mixture and beat until smooth. We just use a whisk. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand overnight at room temperature.

 

3. Just before cooking the waffles, beat in the eggs, add the baking soda, and stir until well mixed.

 

We like crisp, well-done waffles and bake them until steam stops escaping, about 7 minutes. We enjoy our waffles topped with honey, either liquid or creamed. Although we both love butter, neither of us feels the need to butter the waffles; they are quite rich enough as they are.

In our waffle iron, this recipe makes ten waffles. Five waffles makes a meal for the two of us, but we make all ten waffles the same day and reheat them (in the toaster) the next time. They are actually even crisper when reheated.

Rhamkuchen (Cheesecake)

I remember fondly my mother's cheesecake as being the best I ever had, but I thought the recipe had died with her eighteen years ago. At least I have never been able to find it among her cookbooks and clippings. The other night I was browsing through one of the old cookbooks and finally found the recipe! I had never looked in this book before for the cheesecake because I was sure that the recipe was on a recipe card and not from a book.

The recipe originally appeared in A World Of Good Eating: A Collection of Old and New Recipes From Many Lands by Heloise Frost (Phillips Publishers, Inc., 1951). The country of origin was Germany and the recipe is for "rhamkuchen" ("cheese cake" is in parentheses as the translation). My comments on the original recipe are in brackets.

I haven't made the recipe yet, but will soon.

 

Crust

  • 11/2 cups rolled Zwieback crumbs [about 16 slices of Zweiback toast]
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons sugar

Cake

  • 1 pound cream cheese
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
  • rind of 1 lemon
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 2 eggs; separated
  • 1 cup thick sour cream
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • vanilla [I used 1/2 teaspoon]

 

1. Blend the rolled crumbs with melted butter and 2 tablespoons sugar. Press into the bottom of a 9-inch spring-bottom pan. Place in warm oven [I used 300 degrees] for 5 minutes to set the crust. Cool.

 

2. Warm the cream cheese to room temperature and break up with a fork. Blend in the sugar and lemon juice, rind and vanilla. Drop in the egg yolks, one at a time, and beat well after each one. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold into the mixture with a spatula.

 

3. Pour over the crumb base and bake for 45 minutes at 300 degrees.

 

4. Mix 1 tablespoon sugar and the vanilla into the sour cream. Spread lightly over the top of the cake and return it to the oven to bake 10 minutes more. [The sour cream should brown lightly. I needed to rotate the pan to get the cake to brown evenly.]

 

5. Let the cake cool and remove the rim of the spring pan to serve.

(Provisional) Margarita Recipe

Margarita recipes I've seen are all over map regarding proportions and ingredients. In creating my personal favorite, I'm going to take a stab at a recipe for a non-frozen, traditional margarita and refine it as new information becomes available. Herewith then, is a recipe for the margarita I like.

 

  • 3 parts Tequila
  • 2 parts Cointreau
  • 9 parts lime juice (limeade, real limes, or some combination). If using limeade, mix it "strong." Instead of 4 cans of water, use only 3.

A good way to make the salt adhere to the rim of the glass is to put the glass in the freezer for a few minutes. When the warm air hits the cold glass, the resulting frost gives the salt something to stick to. Then run the rim of the glass through a pile of coarse kosher salt.

Posts in “Food”

March 21, 2008

Bridgewater’s Pub After Beer Week

My only regret regarding Beer Week was not being able to attend all 150-odd events (kidding!). Especially painful was missing the Beer Week happy hours at one of my favorite joints, Bridgewater’s Pub, a haven of good food and drink in bustling 30th Street Station. According to the schedule at least, they hosted Summit, Spaten, Southampton, and Lancaster.

Last night, I stopped in for dinner and passed up such delicacies as Duck Fat Popcorn for the more conventional Pulled Pork Sliders topped with slaw. I had time for two beers, a Southampton IPA and a Spaten Spring Bock, served in a large Spaten glass mug. Hey, it was the first day of Spring!

Today, we got out of work early, and I hadn’t eaten lunch yet. SEPTA helped me decide where, because the R5 I was on ended in Philadelphia. With an hour to kill, I took that as a sign and headed straight back to Bridgewater’s Pub, this time for lunch. You might think I was in a rut, but every time I go back, there’s something different. They had already switched out one of the draft beers, replacing the Southampton IPA with Southampton Biere de Mars. Their IPA is good, but the Biere de Mars was one of the tastiest and most drinkable beers I’ve ever had. They also added Beamish Stout on draft (it’s possible I just missed seeing it yesterday), so I had one of those, too. Delicious. I had Beamish on the brain anyway from watching the premier episode of “Two Guys on Beer” (the two guys being Johnny Bilotta and David Martorana), which featured a “Stout Shootout,” a blind tasting of Guinness, Murphy’s, and Beamish. Check it out. Oh, I had the veggie burger to help wash down the beer.

There was an interesting moment just as I was leaving. I was sitting at one of high-top tables instead of the bar (partly because the bar was crowded, but mostly so I could use the laptop). From this vantage point, I noticed that when one of the customers left his seat at the bar temporarily (I knew he was coming back because he left his bags), his cell phone fell on the floor among the bar stools. This happened just as I was getting the check, so I didn’t have a chance to catch him. By the time I finished with the check, somebody else had arrived and put their luggage right on top of the cell phone. Now, I am a shy person, and it was amusing to me that I would have to explain that I needed to shift their baggage so I could grab this phone. So I asked the one guy to pick up his giant backpack so I could get the cell phone—I felt like a magician who could produce cell phones from thin air—and then handed it to the other guy (who was now back). He was very appreciative and gave me a look like I had saved his life. He was just really surprised. Even though the clock at Bridgewater’s is ten minutes fast, I really had to go so, checking my pocket for my cell phone, I headed to the platform.

Comments

Have you considered changing the name of your blog to BereCat...? :-)

March 20, 2008

Beer Week 2008: Michael Jackson Tutored Tasting

As a newcomer to beer, I basically learned who Michael Jackson was when he died last year. He started the Tutored Tastings series at Penn almost twenty years ago, and it looks as if the event will continue without him indefinitely. Judging by the number of heartfelt tributes I heard this week, it’s a shame I never got to hear him speak. I believe he would wish us all to stop moping around, have a good time and drink up, so let’s get on with it. Cheers, Mr. Jackson!

The tutored tasting consists of three sessions each with seating for about 400 people in the Upper Egyptian Gallery of the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. I went to the first one at 1:00 PM. Because I was one of the last people in the room, I ended up near the end of a long table and basically had my own set of beer samples arrayed before me, the envy of all who surrounded me. But believe me, I shared. This stuff doesn’t drink itself, you know; I needed help.

I believe there were four panelists on the dais, Don Russell (he’s everywhere! he’s everywhere!), Tom Dalldorf (editor of Celebrator Beer News), Sam Calagione (Dogfish Head), and somebody else? They were far away, although the sound system was decent.

Presenting the beers:

This was my first tasting with an actual scorecard. We were supposed to rate each beer on appearance, bouquet, balance, mouthfeel (whatever that is), aftertaste, and overall impression. Even though I didn’t have a clue, I played along and filled out my card. According to my scorecard, I’m one heck of a golfer! Oh, wait, I forgot what I was doing. Since we’re talking uniformly good beer here, it’s no surprise that my scores for all of them were very much the same. The lowest score went to Old Companion, and the highest to Palo Santo Marron. This beer was deep—rich in complex flavor and balanced, the kind of beer you could proudly serve to shut up a wine snob who looks down on the whole beer-appreciation scene. It was a little intense for a daily drinker, but it would be outstanding for a special occasion. My overall favorite was Saison Dupont, however, which I could drink all the time if it wasn’t so expensive. A sentimental favorite would have to be the Oatmeal Stout. It was an oatmeal stout (from the late Independence Brew Pub, if you must know) that sucked me into this whole beer thing a couple of years ago.

With each tasting, the crowd grew noisier and noisier, but we ran out of beer before things got totally out of control and with that, the mob was turned loose on the Chinese Rotunda for a free-for-all tasting. Yes, yet another list of what I tried from the 150 available:

  • Rogue Santas Private Reserve (a double-hopped Saint Rogue Red)
  • Brasserie des Géants Goliath Tripel
  • Sly Fox Saison Vos (it really is like champagne)
  • Radeberger Pilsner (exceptionally light and crisp)
  • Allagash White (one of my favorite Belgian wheats)
  • Great Divide Titan IPA
  • Victory Hop Wallop (you know, maybe a leetle too hoppy for me)
  • Climax Porter (nice, not too heavy)
  • Climax ESB
  • Legacy Hoptimus Prime (I have had this before and I love it)
  • Samuel Smith Organic Lager
  • Arcadia Hopmouth Double IPA
  • Arcadia London Porter
  • Bell’s Best Brown Ale (I’m a Bell’s fan, but this was kind of disappointing, actually)
  • Bell’s Pale Ale
  • Bell’s Hop Slam (a lot of good things going on in this IPA)
  • Erie Railbender
  • Weyerbacher Merry Monks Belgian-style Abby trippel Ale (really good!)

And that was the end of Beer Week for me. To Michael Jackson, may you rest in peace! As for the rest of you still earthbound, hope to see you next year.

Comments

It sounds funny to hear you say that you're a newcomer to beer. As long as I've been reading your blog, you've been into beer! Even stranger, I think I've been a beer snob for longer than you have, despite being much younger....

The Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout is one of my personal favorites, too, as is the Allagash White.

Yeah, you’re right, but I still feel like a newcomer because it seems that everywhere I go I find many beers that I have never even heard of. I date my interest in beer to early 2005 and that oatmeal stout I used to drink at Independence Brew Pub during blogger meetups. It was a while before I would try anything else. What’s oddest is that for decades I wouldn’t touch beer at all. No explanation for the transformation, except that I finally realized what I had been missing. Now I guess I’m making up for lost time ;-)

March 19, 2008

Beer Week 2008: A Bitter Bite with Joe Sixpack

In February, when I was planning my Beer Week schedule, I had decided to avoid “all the dinners featuring multiple courses and beer pairings,” because I just don’t have the capacity to eat and drink that much. The description of “A Bitter Bite with Joe Sixpack” (Jose Pistolas, March 13) sounded innocent enough: “a fun taste of hoppy beers, paired with an imaginative menu.” That didn’t say “dinner” to me, or maybe I just fixated on all those hoppy beers! Mmmm.

When I got there at 6:40, the downstairs dining room was empty except for one person, but by 7:15 every seat was filled (about 25 people). I sat at a table for four and was joined by Tom, Steve (visiting from Denver), and David, who said he has a blog (although the URL I wrote down didn’t work). One beer-related tidbit I picked up during our wide-ranging conversation was that English “bitters” is really something wonderful to try if you go to England. I was told that there’s nothing like it here in the US. Someday... I also heard that the “Most Expensive Beers” dinner, held the night before at Monk’s, was an amazing party that even included a marriage! Hard to believe, but why would they lie?

I persuaded Casey Parker (our host, representing Jose Pistolas) to sign page sixty-six of my copy of Don Russell’s book (where he lists his favorite beers). Actually, it didn’t take much persuading. :-)

The beer lineup and pairings:

WELCOME BEER
Weyerbacher Double Simcoe Great IPA with a slight metallic aftertaste, probably my favorite IPA of the evening.
FIRST COURSE
Heavy Sea’s Small Craft Warning Uber Pils Delicious and not too hoppy. You don’t need to be a hophead to appreciate this one.
paired with: Serrano Ham and Asparagus Risotto; shaved queso cojito and mint
SECOND COURSE
Dogfish Head Aprihop Different, with a nice hoppy note added to the fruitiness.
paired with: Pan-Seared Diver Scallops; applewood bacon and Jever Pilsner braised
CHEESE COURSE
Sly Fox Cask Rt. 113 A treat to have this on cask. Wonderful, bitter flavor, one of my favorite IPAs, but tonight, at least, I preferred Weyerbacher’s by a nose.
paired with: Iowa Maytag bleu cheese; tomato confiture, spiced balsamic syrup
ENTREE
Stoudt’s Smooth Hoperator Excellent. DeRanke XX Bitter was an alternate choice, but I didn’t taste it.
paired with: Barleywine Marinated Pork Tenderloin; sweet corn souffle, creamed spinach, Vermont maple demi
DESSERT
Urthel Hop-It A Belgian IPA, combining the best of both worlds, but by this point, my head was spinning, so I barely sipped this one.
paired with: Isgros South Philly Rum Cake

I think I was the first person to leave and left the table in the middle of a heated discussion about global warming. I was feeling kind of warm myself—what you earthlings call drunk. I had reached my limit just before the dessert course, but all those delicious beers were just too good to pass up. Fortunately, the walk to the train helped sober me up.

Of the four events I attended during Beer Week, this was my favorite. It wasn’t just one thing that stood out. Rather, everything was just right—my favorite kinds of beer and the best food of any of the events, all in a relaxing and friendly setting. Thanks to Don Russell for making it happen.

Oh, by the way, if you’re planning to go to Beer Week in 2009, don’t wait until February like I did to make up your mind.

March 18, 2008

Beer Week 2008: Schmidt’s History at Triumph Brewing

Tuesday the 11th was my next outing, and this time I dragged my wife along to one of the many “Meet the Brewer” events, this one featuring local beer historian Rich Wagner and Jack Ehmann (formerly of Schmidt’s) at Triumph Brewing. Unlike most of the other events, this one wasn’t built around tasting a variety of craft beer, but my father was a loyal Schmidt’s drinker, and besides, I had never seen Rich Wagner speak.

We arrived around 6:30 and asked to be seated as close to the screen (past the bar on the back wall) as possible. Since there were quite a few people there already, we weren’t that close, so while it was pretty easy to see, it wasn’t so easy to hear. We settled in and started ordering. During the course of the talk, we ordered schlachtplatte mit brotchen (a sausage and cheese sampler—a Beer Week special), buffalo chicken spring rolls, edamame, and a nicoise salad. I’ve always enjoyed the food at Triumph, and tonight the sampler was particularly outstanding. Our beer selection included a Kellerbier Pilsner and Bengal Gold IPA (for me) and a Honey Wheat and Schwarzbier (for Anne).

Somehow I got the impression that this lecture would be an overview of the history of brewing in Philadelphia, but it was really only about the history of Schmidt’s. No problem, as the history of Schmidt’s alone provided more than enough material for a fascinating presentation.

March 17, 2008

Beer Week 2008: Extreme Beer Homebrew Challenge

It’s going to be all beer all the time for the next few days here at mere cat as I wrap up my adventures during Philly’s first-ever Beer Week.

I had hoped to start Beer Week right on its opening day of March 7th by attending “Beer and Cheese: A Victorious Combo” (at Tria’s Fermentation School), because, well, I love beer and cheese, but it sold out before I could get a ticket. Monday was my next free night, so I decided to go to Jose Pistolas for “The Extreme Beer Homebrew Challenge.” My interest in homebrewing is nascent, but from experience sampling the beers of the few homebrewers I know, I was sure the beer would be both unusual and excellent. Also we do happen to have basic brewing equipment (acquired when Anne made a batch of mead last year), so I thought the evening might help inspire me to try it myself.

The event was presented in part by Home Sweet Homebrew (homebrew supplier), and I had the pleasure of meeting George and Nancy Hummel, the proprietors, as well as Casey Parker, one of the owners of Jose Pistolas. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to meet the other sponsor, Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head. I really only knew one person who was going to be there (one of the homebrewers), but during the evening, I ran into an old friend of mine who has been brewing for a while.

The place was so packed, I actually had a little difficulty getting to taste all the beers, but in between gorging myself on chicken and quesadillas, here’s what I tried:

  • Cuckoo for Cocoa Bock (Weizenbock) by Chris Clair
  • Hop Goggles Belgian IPA by Chris Coval
  • Greer’s Garage Grand Cru Belgian Strong Ale by John Greer
  • Hop God Ale by Bob Grossman
  • Belgian Wheat by Mark Kenesky
  • Paradise Pumpkin Wit by Kyle Kernozek and Michelle Dickey
  • Mint Chocolate Porter by Howard Ross, Michael Pearlman, and Ari Romm

Unfortunately, I never got to try the Scarlet Fire (with chipotle peppers) or the It Ain’t Just for Breakfast Coffee Porter. All of the beers had outstanding flavor and balance. If I had to pick a favorite, it would be the Belgian IPA, because as I’ve said recently, I have a weakness for hopped-up versions of things. Kudos to Jose Pistolas for hosting this event, and I can strongly recommend hitting any of the homebrew events next year.

March 3, 2008

Philly Craft Beer Festival 2008

Another beer post, and Philly Beer Week is still a week away!

Saturday we went to second Philly Craft Beer Festival (last year’s festival was so much fun). This year, I didn’t have much of a strategy; about all I did was try to avoid breweries I know fairly well (skipping Yuengling, Lancaster, Victory, and Yards). For some reason, we were able to taste more beers this year. While it seemed just as crowded (and I mean crowded), no line was much more than five people long, so in about three hours, we were able to taste 33 beers, listen to the band, and split a corndog. Not bad. Another bonus this year was that I found some beers I liked well enough to buy a whole case of, but more on that in a moment. First, here’s the list in order of tasting:

Thirty-three beers seems like a lot, but that’s only 66 ounces split two ways—barely three beers in a three-hour stretch. Even though we barely felt a thing, flavor fatigue set in, and we reached saturation. We’ll try for 40 next year. ;-) I should mention that $40 is a lot to pay for 33 ounces of beer, but the tasting opportunites of the festival make it worthwhile for me.

At a festival like this, it’s pretty hard to find a bad beer, and I was very pleased with most of the beers on this list. Still there were a few high and low points worth mentioning.

I stayed away from most IPAs (currently my favorite style), but couldn’t resist trying a few. I liked them all (except the Butternuts), but my favorite was Stoudt’s, and I plan to pick up a case of this. Despite being a distinguished local brand, I had almost no experience with Stoudt’s before. Check out this profile of Stoudt’s at American Hops.

Two other exceptional beers were Erie Brewing’s Presque Isle Pilsner and Southampton’s Arrogant Bastard. I think the way to win my heart is to take any style, hop it up a bit, and I’ll lap it up.

Finally, my most exciting discovery was Ithaca Brewery. I really liked both of their beers, especially the Red Ale, probably my favorite overall at this year’s festival. It would be fun to make a pilgrimage to Ithaca (I have fond memories of the Moosewood restaurant there).

There were only three clunkers, and while it was probably just me, I didn’t care for the Anchor Porter, Long Trail’s Blackberry Wheat (watery), or the Butternuts IPA (just didn’t meet my expectations of what an “IPA” should taste like).

Sorry, no pictures this year. I didn’t even bring a camera. Special shout out to the Bullets, who rocked hard. This year’s festival sold out early, so if you’re thinking of going in 2009, don’t delay.

February 29, 2008

Philly Beer 101

On Tuesday, we attended “Philly Beer 101,” a beer-appreciation class taught by Don Russell (aka Joe Sixpack) at the Trolley Car Diner in Mt. Airy. “This thirst-quenching course takes you through the confusing choices with a focus on the best values in the local beer scene. We’ll discuss the people behind the breweries, the styles they make, great beer bars and pairing your favorites with great food.” Herewith some random notes on the evening.

He served us some Miller Lite first, which he used to demonstrate the marked contrast between its feeble flavor and the more-robust beers to follow.

He then continued by explaining the two great branches of beer taxonomy, ales and lagers. The first pair of lagers were Sly Fox’s Pikeland Pils and Troeg’s Troegenator. Here were two lagers that taste vastly different. He noted that the Philly area is rich with great pilsners (Victory and Stoudt’s also make one).

Next were two ales, Yards Philly Pale Ale and Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA (an “Imperial” IPA with 9% ABV, twice as much as the Yards!). These beers were similar in flavor, but at opposite ends of the bitterness/hoppiness scale. I love Dogfish Head’s 60 Minute, but the 90 Minute was a little too much for me.

Moving on to the Belgian styles, Don noted that Philly boasts many places with fine selections of Belgian beers. He served us Flying Fish’s Belgian Abbey Double and Yards Saison. I liked both of these a lot (how can you not like a saison—they are so refreshing), but was surprised that I loved the Abbey Double, which wasn’t too malty and sweet for my taste.

Stoudt’s Winter Ale was next and this was my favorite beer of the evening. Victory’s Baltic Thunder was next. It was introduced recently to some fanfare, and while it wasn’t bad, it was the first Victory brew that I didn’t think was perfect. Something about the balance didn’t seem right, and I think I still prefer Three Floyds Christmas Porter and Fuller’s London Porter.

Don classified Dogfish Head’s Raison D’Etre as a brown ale, but it wasn’t at all what I expected. To me, it tasted “Belgian” i.e., malty. Weyerbacher’s Blithering Idiot is a barleywine with 11% ABV (the highest in this group). This was my first barleywine and for me at this point, I would have to classify it as an acquired taste.

In between the tastings, Don wove a spellbinding (to me, at least) commentary on each beer, embroidering each description with innumerable facts and figures. We also received an excellent handout with 24 recommended bars and a list of about 30 beer styles each with a representative example.

After class, Don was selling copies of his book, Joe Sixpack’s Philly Beer Guide, which was just released. I think the title says it all, although there’s also excellent coverage of the surrounding counties and even two places in New Jersey. I bought a copy, of course.

This class will be held one more time on March 25. It is already sold out, but you can add your name to the waiting list. I had a great time.

Tomorrow, it’s the Philly Craft Beer Festival as Tony’s Beer Month continues. Cheers!

Comments

Thanks for the follow-up! Very interesting! I've had a lot of those beers. There are so many good brews in Philly! I think that Dogfish Head and Victory makes some of my favorites. Though I do love that Sly Fox Stout! yum!!

i'm a big fan of the raison d'etre. soooo good especially for a high ABV (i think 8%) beer. i find that many high ABV beers are too alcoholy without enough craft going into the flavor of the beer.

February 25, 2008

Culinary Breakthroughs: Pasta Water

Yes, pasta water—that unappetizing gray soup I’ve been flushing down the drain all these years. Now I am convinced it’s a miracle ingredient. What happened?

When I read Heat (Bill Buford's memoir of learning to cook professionally at Mario Batali’s Babbo), I was intrigued by his description of the restaurant’s pasta water, which, after several hours turned into “a sauce thickener, binding the elements and, in effect, flavoring the pasta with the flavor of itself.” He thought it should be bottled and sold. The starchy water combines with the dish’s sauce and helps it cling to the pasta: “It was no longer linguine, exactly; it had changed color and texture and become something else... This, I thought, is the equivalent of bread soaked in gravy.”

Intriguing, yes, but I didn’t get it until last night when we made shrimp scampi from a recipe in Saveur (recipe). The last step has you adding some reserved pasta water and cooking until “sauce has thickened slightly, 1–2 minutes more.” I can’t say I noticed much thickening, but the linguine was evenly coated with a heavenly blend of butter, wine, seasonings, and shrimp juices, transforming the pasta and producing the same effect Buford described. I have always loved pasta, but now I am looking at it in a whole new way. Try the recipe yourself (it’s easy) and be swept away.

Comments

Yes, yes, yes. My magical moment came through the only pasta dish I really cook -- linguine with white clam sauce -- but the revelation was the same. That last step, in which one condenses and concentrates the sauce, is key.

What a brilliant idea. I am gonna have to try that in the near future. I assume this is in place of corn starch/flour.

What a neat idea! I'm not a seafood person, but I'll try this the next time I make a pasta dish (which should be any day now, as I am a legendarily lazy cook and pasta = insta-meal).

Matt, interesting that in the book, Buford’s pasta-water epiphany was linguine with clams.
lcsa99, I don’t really understand the chemistry, but I think the pasta water helps the sauce cling to the pasta as much as thickening it. I mean it does thicken the sauce, but the cool part is the way the sauce coats the entire strand of pasta. Maybe traditional thickeners (corn starch/flour) would do the same thing, but the simplicity of using the pasta water appeals to me.

It was good to know about the pasta water which was a miracle ingredient. Most pasta is made from durum wheat flour and contains protein and carbohydrates. It is a good source of slow-release energy and has the additional advantage of being value for money. It takes little time, but is quite easy and well worth the effort.

February 15, 2008

Beer Week Schedule

Philly Beer Week is less than a month away. There are well over 80 events, and I have been struggling to decide which ones will best advance my malty education. Some decisions were easy. For example, I have avoided all the dinners featuring multiple courses and beer pairings. Typically, it’s all I can do to finish my entrée, let alone eat six courses. Even though I listed something on almost every day, there’s no way I have the stamina to attend every event on this list. Since I won’t actually be attending all these events, I attempted to rank them (see number in parentheses). I hope to go to the first four or five, although most of them are already sold out.

The Philly Beer Week site has details on all the events, and the Beeryard has all the events arranged in calendar format. See also Beer Radar (Joe Sixpack/Don Russell), the Brew Lounge, and Seen Through a Glass (Lew Bryson) for more info.

Saturday, March 1
Philadelphia Craft Beer Festival (1)
We went to this last year and had a great time. I concentrated on IPA tastings (I had never liked hoppy beers before), and now that’s my favorite style.
Friday, March 7
Beer and Cheese: A Victorious Combo (3) [SOLD OUT]
Tria’s Fermentation School
1601 Walnut Street
215-972-7076
www.triacafe.com
7:30 p.m. $50
Victory Brewing Company's Bill Covaleski and Tria's own Michael McCaulley match artisanal cheese to Victory's brews.
Saturday, March 8
Detox!
Sunday, March 9
Belgian Beer Basics Class (2) [SOLD OUT]
with Tom Peters
Monk’s Café
264 South 16th St
215-545-7005
www.monkscafe.com
2 p.m. $25
Not a big Belgian fan. I was hoping this would nudge me out of my comfort zone.
Monday, March 10
Go Yeast, Young Man (9) [SOLD OUT]
Tria’s Fermentation School
1601 Walnut St.
215-972-076
www.triacafe.com
6:30 p.m. $45
“Legendary craft brewer Larry Bell of Michigan's Bell's Brewery explores that important beer ingredient that we can’t see, but can often taste in ales—yeast.” Bell’s beers are a favorite.
Tuesday, March 11
Meet the Brewer Night (8)
Price?
“Drop in at taverns throughout the city to meet the craftsmen and who make your favorite ales and lagers!”
Wednesday, March 12
Philly-Area Beer: Yeah, We've Got That (5)
TJ's Everyday
35 Paoli Plaza, Paoli
$25 for food; pay-as-you-go for beer.
“...a wild waltz through the full breadth of beer produced by local brewers”
Thursday, March 13
A Bitter Bite with Joe Sixpack (4)
Jose Pistola’s
263 S. 15th St.
215-545-4101
www.josepistolas.com
Hop heaven.
Friday, March 14
Detox!
Saturday, March 15
Michael Jackson: The Man and His Legacy (6)
19th Annual Tutored Tasting at Penn Museum
Chinese Rotunda and Upper Egyptian Gallery
Benefitting the Penn Museum's research programs
Annenberg Box Office - 215-898-3900
$45 per guest; $40 for Museum members
Sunday, March 16
Real Ale Festival (7)
Sponsored by Yards Brewing and Triumph Brewing
Triumph Brewing Company
117 Chestnut St.
www.triumphbrewing.com
1-4 p.m. Tix TBA.

Comments

I'm so looking forward to this event! and maybe even shooting video. Beer geeks galore! Maybe a beer death match between Yards and new upstart rival Phila Brewing Company.

John, I'm looking forward to seeing some video from you and eager to compare Yards and new Phila Brewing. STILL trying to get my Beer Week schedule and tickets in some kind of order.

November 21, 2007

Happy Thanksgiving

Early dismissal today, and I’m home and heading downstairs to toast me some flour for to make some awesome gravy tomorrow. Thanks to Marisa for showing the way to make the Ultimate Gravy on Fork You! and her blog. I made this last year, and it was the best gravy I’ve ever had.

And if you’re looking for the perfect wine for Thanksgiving, check out PhilaFoodie’s take on Thanksgiving wine pairings. Now if you’ll excuse me, it’s toast time. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Comments

Happy Thanksgiving! Gravy....yeah, that's one of my faves.

funny web log :)

September 29, 2007

National Toast to Michael Jackson

The National Toast to Michael Jackson is tomorrow, September 30 at 9:00 PM EST (search Upcoming for “MJBeerHunter” to find the location nearest you). Proceeds from most of these toasts benefit the National Parkinson Foundation. I have wanted to go to the Standard Tap for quite some time, so this seems like the perfect reason. I am planning to head down there for one of their famous burgers and to participate in the toast.

September 21, 2007

Teresa’s Next Door

Finally made it to Teresa’s Next Door in Wayne, after a company party at the always-excellent Christopher’s. Wow, do they have a lot of beer here. Twenty-four taps, half of which were Belgian and two hand pumps (currently dispensing Yards ESA and Troegs HopBack Amber). In addition, they also offer about 250 beers in bottles, at least 150 of which were Belgian. (Is Belgium that big a country?) I was only there for half an hour and my head was spinning from all the choices. I finally decided on Brewer’s Art Resurrection (an Abbey-style dubbel). Very good. I really need to brush up on my “Belgian.”

Comments

Impressive! Thanks for the tip. I seldom get out to Wayne but now I have an excellent reason. Cheers.

September 3, 2007

Michael Jackson Dies

I’ve been away for two days and just beginning to catch up with the outpouring of tributes and reminiscences following “Beer Hunter” Michael Jackson’s death on August 30. I came to beer very late in life, and in fact, I had never even heard of Michael Jackson until earlier this year when he arrived in Philadelphia to host his annual dinner and beer tasting at Penn’s University Museum. His Beer Hunter site now redirects to michaeljacksonthebeerhunter.blogspot.com that features some memorial posts and links to other tributes. The most surprising thing I learned is the existence of the British Guild of Beer Writers. I had no idea there were enough beer writers in the UK to form a guild, but judging from the size of the membership, there certainly are.

Farewell to a titan. Local luminary Lew Bryson’s post is a good place to start.

August 30, 2007

Bell’s Two Hearted Ale

I have to say that Victory HopDevil is my current favorite IPA, but I love trying new ones. Next on my list was one from Stone, but this brew was unavailable, so I ended up with a case of Bell’s Two Season Ale. The label of Bell’s Two Fisted Ale features some kind of fish; I’m not sure what that has to do with the name “Two Headed Ale” or beer for that matter. Ah, well, so many beer names are fanciful and enigmatic. After sampling a few bottles of Two Cylinder Ale, I like it a lot, but don’t prefer it to HopDevil. The hoppiness kind of sneaks up on you at the end with a nice bitter finish. Maybe that’s why they called it Two Timing Ale. Whatever the origin of the name, the really weird thing is that Anne claims I keep saying the name wrong. Maybe I slur my words a little bit, but I don’t think I’m name confused about the...

August 8, 2007

Sour Grapes, er, I Mean Cherries

Have I ever mentioned how much I love cherry pie? It is my favorite pie and one of my favorite desserts ever. Yet I have never made a cherry pie from scratch. (Parenthetical digression: We don’t eat a lot of pie, but when we do, it’s usually made from scratch. I specialize in crust. I like to call myself the CrustMaster 2000™ mostly because I have been using a food processor recently instead of a pastry blender to cut in the shortening.)

I have never seen fresh sour cherries for sale at the market, so imagine my excitement when we found sour cherries for sale last week at the fabulous Brown’s Orchard & Farm Market in Loganville, PA. We bought all they had and packed the station wagon with cherries (OK, not quite).

Coincidentally, Anne noticed an Oxo cherry pitter featured in the September issue of Fine Cooking (page 22). Never having had any cherries in need of pitting, we were shy one cherry pitter, so naturally she ordered one. You can’t miss the thing; it’s right on the home page.

Oxo home page with cherry pitter

Sure looks as if Oxo’s trying to move some cherry pitters, doesn’t it? Ha!

When the cherry pitter didn’t arrive with our order, we were stunned to learn that our order was cancelled! Reason: “Product not available.” Not even back-ordered as if it were out of stock, just cancelled.

Products are discontinued for all sorts of reasons, but they were featuring the cherry pitter so prominently, we just had to go back to oxo.com and check. Sure enough, it’s still the featured product on the home page. In fact, you can still add one to your shopping cart! Criminy. Don’t they have computers or something to keep track of this stuff?

So now what are we supposed to do. Pit our cherries by hand?

Comments

I've never used a cherry pitter, but the construction looks very similar to a garlic clove peeler, and I do know that that tool does not work.

I made a sour cherry clafoutis earlier this summer. yummy.

I too enjoy a good pie crust, Mr. CrustMaster 2000. Surely someone else has these in stock?

Colin, once we got over the shock we realized that there were probably plenty of cherry pitters languishing unbought at various retailers, although many places list it as out of stock. We found some at Williams-Sonoma and bought two. The extra one will go to the highest bidder for this apparent rarity among kitchen gadgets.

I bought a cherry pitter earlier this summer at Fante's in the Italian Market. It wasn't an OXO one, but has proven to be quite effective (it does create a slightly morbid splatter effect, but I have a feeling they all make your kitchen look like you've committed small-scale murder). I have a quart of pitted sour cherries in my freezer, just waiting for the right crust or cake batter.

I have a feeling that I would dig really good cherry pie. Unfortunately, I've never had really good cherry pie.

But now I've got that song (and video) stuck in my head. "I love cherry pie..."

I wish I was in York last weekend; I might have run into you. I'm going this weekend and will of course make the pilgrimage to Brown's. I hope to find some nice second quality peaches for jam.

I'm actually surprised you found sour cherries in August. For some reason, I thought they were a mid June crop. Anyway, last year I made sour cherry jam and pitted the cherries by hand. Between pitting and chopping, it took me hours and it's not something I look forward to attempting again.

I hope you enjoy whatever you end up doing with those cherries.

Melissa, you’re right about the date. Brown’s harvest calendar lists cherries as being available late June/early July. Anyway, have fun at Brown’s!

May 7, 2007

I Can Has Lolbee?

I confess that lolcat fever has struck mere cat, which is usually meme-free. It started when I happened upon a few amusing examples, but didn’t fully understand that it was a full-fledged movement until I read Scott’s explanation of the whole lolcat phenomenon. I couldn’t resist trying one, but as much as I love cats, that area has been strip-mined, so I thought I would do something more personal. Photography maybe? im in ur kamera, settin ur white balanz. Nah, it needs an animal of some kind. Then I thought, why not a lolbee:

im in ur flowerz, stealin ur nekter

To the untrained eye, this little fellow looks like he is gathering nectar, but he is actually harvesting pollen... Ouch! Anne dope-slaps me to remind me that the “little fellow” is a female.

Making mead

Cooking honey in preparation for our first batch of mead.

OK, good. I’ve got that out of my system.

In more serious bee news, Anne started her first batch of mead yesterday. It's a basic mead recipe that used about ten pounds of honey and will yield about five gallons of mead. The mead batch has already started bubbling slowly but steadily. In about a year, we can has mead!

Once the mead is bottled and we have an empty bucket again, I might try making a batch of beer. That should be an interesting experience even if the beer isn’t any good. It seems like every brew pub has a nice diagram of the process, but I have yet to get it all straight.

April 4, 2007

Spring Break in Paris [nanoblog]

The Girl Who Ate Everything documented her spring break in Paris (!) in a series of achingly beautiful photographs mostly of food. Really hit me where I live. Simply. Amazing. Via The Amateur Gourmet.

March 6, 2007

60 Minute IPA at Bridgewater’s Pub

I didn’t expect to post a followup to the Philly Craft Beer Festival quite this soon, but I happened to grab dinner at Bridgewater’s Pub in 30th Street Station tonight on the way to the OWASP meeting and had an interesting beer. The lobster roll I was looking forward to is off the menu for the moment (the chef told me he would have to charge $25 for it at current prices—the New York rate—and to look for it to return in May), so I tried the hamburger, which was excellent.

In researching the Craft Beer Festival post, I stumbled across a list of 25 best beers in America which included Dogfish Head’s 60 Minute IPA (“the best we’ve found”). As luck would have it, Bridgewater’s Pub serves this beer in bottles. It had the characteristic grapefruit-juice flavor of an IPA, but was less bitter and hence more drinkable than the ones I remember from Saturday. Bridgewater’s Pub has a nice selection of beer, not to mention great food if you happen to be stuck waiting for a train. On tap:

  • O’Hara’s Irish stout
  • McChouffe
  • Legacy’s Hedonism Red Ale
  • Spaten Lager
  • Stoudt's Triple Ale
  • Smithwick’s Irish Ale

In bottles:

  • Harp Lager
  • Youngs Double Chocolate Stout
  • Chimay Cinq Cents White Cap
  • Dogfish 60 Minute IPA
  • Railbender Ale
  • Ayinger Dunkel
  • Corsendock Dark (Brown)
  • Duvel (Belgian Ale)
  • Lindeman's Kriek and Pomme
  • Erdinger Bock
  • Éphémère Apple

March 4, 2007

Philly Craft Beer Festival Recap

We had a great time at the Philly Craft Beer Festival yesterday. Whether it was worth $40+ is another story to be explored below, but it sure was fun.

Philadelphia Cruise Terminal

The Philadelphia Cruise Terminal hosted the Festival. After recent rains, it was a beautiful day with temperatures in the mid-fifties.

We went to the first of two four-hour sessions (noon and 6:00 PM), arriving at the parking lot around 12:30. There was no traffic at all, and there weren’t that many cars in the lot. It was easy to get a seat on the next school bus shuttle to the terminal building. So far, so good. That is, until we arrived at the terminal and got a look at the incredibly long line queued up still waiting to get in. While we were waiting, they announced that the Festival had sold out, so the few people without tickets left the line, disappointed. In the end, it actually didn’t take long to get though this line and receive our complimentary 4-ounce tasting glass. We were in and immediately swept into the teeming multitudes.

Philly Craft beer Festival

Despite the tipsy camera angle, this was taken before I had had enough to affect my aim.

People cheering at Philly Craft Beer Festival

Later in the afternoon, people hoisted their glasses and whooped for no apparent reason. I guess it’s like doing the wave.

For a few seconds there I was freaking out because of the crowd. I have rarely been in situations with this many people all packed together (despite riding SEPTA every day), but everything turned out just fine. Everyone was polite, there was no rude or rowdy behavior, and everyone was in a good mood. While at first it seemed that getting to the beer was a hopeless case, it didn’t take that long at all. All in all, a well-organized event with 1500 really nice people. On to the beer.

Joe Sixpack advised, “Have a plan. Try comparing a specific style - say, pilsener - from different breweries.” I’m not a fan of “hoppy” beers, but after a recent favorable impression of Victory’s Hop Devil, I decided to compare some pale ales. I tasted:

I confess I couldn’t tell them apart. I had a slight preference for Arrogant Bastard and the Yards IPA, but the preference was probably statistically insignificant. Unfortunately, Victory ran out of Hop Devil in the first hour before I could get a sample for comparison. Either pale ales really are all the same, or I lack the sophistication and discernment to tell them apart. I suspect the latter.

Other beers I tried in no particular order:

The Original Bullets

Bobby Bloomingdale (bass), Michael Davis (guitar), Walter Epting (drums) of The Bullets.

That’s nearly 20 varieties (between the two of us), but we only scratched the surface of the 150-odd beers available. I particularly liked Southampton Double White Ale, Nodding Head Grog, and Victory Golden Monkey, but there wasn’t a single beer that compelled me to run out and buy a case the way I did after I tasted Three Floyds Alpha Klaus Xmas Porter, a brew which blew me away. I’m ambivalent about whether I would attend the Festival again, mostly because of the cost. While it was a terrific party and offered an unparalleled opportunity to compare a multitude of beers, the opportunity was always at risk because of the logistics. Beyond some notations on a chalkboard, it wasn’t clear what varieties were available from each brewery, and the festival was so crowded it was easy to get swept away from the brewery you thought you were in line for. Because of this element of randomness, comparing beers in an organized way was more difficult than it would be in a well-stocked bar like Monk’s. Of course, I could never sample five IPAs at Monk’s without passing out. Still I had a lot of fun pretending to be a beer connoisseur and will probably go again next year.

Afterwards, I had hoped to stop by the renowned John’s Roast Pork for a roast pork sandwich, but learned they are closed on the weekends. That was a disappointment, but it was the only one in a great day.

Comments

Tony, if I count correctly, that 16 tastings...yum...me, being a cheap drunk, I would haven't' gotten through half that many...and then I would have NEEDED that roast pork...

I'm not great with pressing crowds, but that event sounded like fun. Now I'm going to have to find some Three Floyds...sounds tasty...

Sounds like I missed a pretty good time! Glad you enjoyed yourself. I could see the situation getting a little overwhelming, due to the crowds and the inability to systematically taste the beers you wanted to in order to form a good opinion of any one of them.

Perhaps for so much money, and the obvious good turn out, they should extend it to an entire weekend limiting each session to less than 1,000 people or something. That may have gone a long way to making the price a little easier to swallow (pun intended).

I really appreciate you jotting down your experiences.

count me as one of the many would-be patrons of john's who were turned away by a closed door. i believe their hours are 11-3 and only during the week. nuts i tell ya.

Rogue Dead Guy Ale is one of my favorites, but I think I'm biased, being that it's a beer from Oregon.

March 2, 2007

Philly Craft Beer Festival

Just learned about the Philly Craft Beer Festival yesterday, but Saturday was already a busy day. Then the Mac programming meeting was postponed and my plans for Saturday night were canceled, so suddenly it looks like we're going. It was meant to be.

Comments

Does this mean that you are going? If so, please let me know soon.

I'm looking into going. But it doesn't seem to be worth the entry price. 35 bucks a head (if you buy online), and you get to taste beer but food is not included?

Seems sorta steep for some reason. Thoughts?

Colin, We are going to the first session (12-4pm). It is quite spendy, considering how few ounces of beer I will actually drink (I calculate about $20 worth at retail prices). On the other hand, it seems like a great opportunity, since I've only sampled beer from about 10 of those breweries. When I saw the price, I waffled. It's probably not worth it, but I talked myself into it.

Grrr. I was tempted. But the price, plus the drive, plus the fact that I can only go at the 6PM session... makes my decision much easier. I think we'll pass this time. Thanks for blogging about it (otherwise I would have never heard of it). Hopefully I can hook up with you at one of these types of events sometime in the future.

February 2, 2007

Half-Hearted Diet Progress

I started a half-hearted diet back in October and, although it’s going slowly, it is working. I have lost 10 pounds. I know, I know, on a real diet you could probably lose that much in a week. Still, it is satisfying and 10 pounds is about half my goal. At my goal weight of 145, I would still be 10 pounds over my twenty-something weight, but I think I can live with that. It will probably be much more difficult to lose the next 10; I have already noticed that the rate of lossage is decreasing. Maybe I should, like, um, exercise or something.

Comments

Nah-- "real diets" shouldn't promise quick weight loss, since you're more likely to regain the weight. A good diet should have slow progress, since it should acclimate your body to the change and make it stick.

In any case, good for you! Exercise is good too.

Tony, I'm trying that too. Down 5 lbs so far but 5 is not as solid of a success as 10 -- mine could just be water loss or something.
My goal is to drop 20 also.
Do you think I should cut back on the beer?

Good luck to you.

That’s a great start—congratulations! You might have to cut back on beer a little if you think beer contributes a significant number of calories to your diet. But to me, a calorie is a calorie whether it comes from beer or something else. I don't drink much, so I haven't had to give any up yet. Here's a story: Last week, I weighed 155 one morning, ate an entire tube of Thin Mint Girl Scout cookies, had a hamburger and beer for dinner, and the next day weighed 154. When I told the guy I bought the cookies from that I had lost a pound on the “Girl Scout cookie diet,” he told me I should have had two rolls! The point is that I don't think what you do on any single day has any effect on your weight. It's the day-in day-out balance between the calories you eat vs what your body burns. If you eat fewer calories than you need, you lose weight. I found that if I eat when I'm actually hungry and not just when the clock says it’s time, I easily cut out a lot of calories without the hunger pangs that can ruin a diet.

February 1, 2007

Book: “New England’s Favorite Seafood Shacks”

As promised yesterday, a return to normalcy with a post about lobster rolls. With some snow headed our way here in the depths of winter, my mind has been spinning fanciful images of warm breezes and good food. Since those images won’t be fulfilled for many months, how about curling up with a good book in the meantime?

I knew of only two books with any kind of focus on lobster rolls: Lobster Rolls and Blueberry Pie: Three Generations of Recipes and Stories from Summers on the Coast of Maine by Rebecca Charles (who owns the Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan) and Deborah Di Clementi, and The Lobster Roll {and other pleasures of summer by the beach} by Andrea Terry and Jodi della Femina. (Andrea Terry is owner of The Lobster Roll restaurant in Amagansett.) Surprisingly, I don’t own either book, but yesterday I discovered a book that was published last year that I will have to buy: New England's Favorite Seafood Shacks: Eating Up the Coast from Connecticut to Maine by Elizabeth Bougerol.

I thought I had eaten at a lot of places over the years, but wow, this book is amazing. It’s not devoted exclusively to lobster rolls, but virtually every seafood shack serves them, and Ms. Bougerol claims to have eaten 156, so there’s lots of lobster love and plenty of new places to visit. Read more about the book and pay a visit to her Flickr gallery. It’s guaranteed to chase those winter blues away.

Comments

Oh! It's cheesy, to be sure, but I love the falling snow effect you put on your page at the moment. :)

Cheesy for sure! I was hoping to have it coincide with the actual snowfall, but it stopped snowing not long after I activated it and then I forgot about it. I'll probably leave it on until Saturday when the weather is supposed to clear up.

January 19, 2007

Milk and Honey

To get our fix of local viands after the collapse of Covered Bridge Produce, we started ordering things from Philadelphia Winter Harvest, a “buying club” we found through Farm to City. Unlike most CSAs that require a large payment up front at the beginning of the season, Winter Harvest is more a pay-as-you-go system. Send them a minimum of $50 to start and then go crazy up to the limit in your account and so on. We’ve been getting a few items once every two weeks.

One staple we order every time now is raw (unpasteurized) milk. Pennsylvania is one of only a few states that permit sales of raw milk; there are over 50 licensed suppliers in the states. I was always curious about raw milk, because it was supposed to be much better tasting, and it is, although not dramatically so. The milk we receive is homogenized (no cream on top), but it clearly has a higher fat content than “whole milk” from the supermarket. That probably contributes to the enhanced flavor as much as the lack of pasteurization does. Incidentally, Whole Foods sells un-homogenized milk, although it is pasteurized. You can’t have everything. Unfortunately, there’s still no officially sanctioned way to buy products made from raw milk, such as butter and cheese.

Our last order included a big jar of local honey as well. Anne is making her first batch of mead, and the principal ingredient is, of course, honey. The homegrown honey is almost gone, and besides, she didn’t want to sacrifice it for this experimental batch.

Comments

hey-- we've been getting stuff through Winter Harvest as well! My husband likes the raw milk also.

I had some mead many moons ago at General Lafayette Inn, I think. I remember liking it very much. I had barleywine there, too (although not on the same night). mmm.

If you can, I highly suggest Red Earth Farm for the spring-fall CSA. It may be very competitive to get a share this year, thou8gh.

I'll have to try some barleywine. Sounds good. I'm not sure what we're doing this season, but I think we're going with Pennypack Farm as they are closest.

We are also enjoying the Winter Harvest buying club. I prefer it to Red Earth, which was a little dicey last season, and it had fewer choices than I was used to. I'd love to try out the raw milk. It's supposed to have great health benefits and is treated as a black market wonder in the states where it's illegal. Unfortunately, the pregnancy prevents me from ingesting anything that hasn't been pasteurized (leaving me with no options but American goat cheese. Hmmph!). Maybe next year!

January 11, 2007

Waterless Pie Crust

I discovered—by accident—how to make pie crust without using water. First, however, here are a few words of context for those who never made crust from scratch.

What turns pie crust into dough (something you can roll out) is a little water you add to the flour and fat mixture. Recipes caution to use just enough to get the dough to hang together. Too little and the dough cracks; too much and you risk making your pastry tough. Typically, I usually ended up adding the maximum amount of water and while my crust was good, it never achieved the ultimate in flaknitude.

When a friend strongly encouraged me to try using a food processor, it was a revelation. The food processor did a much better job of mixing, and it allowed me to add much less water. I thought I didn't have that much more to learn until we got a tub of lard from our CSA. I made a crust with half lard and half unsalted butter and put it in the food processor. To my amazement, in the time it normally took to blend the fat and flour, I had dough in the work bowl! This dough was moist and didn't crack at all, but it was sticky and extremely fragile. Chilling it made it possible to roll out, but it didn’t make it into the quiche dish in one piece, I can tell you, although it was easy to repair. It did produce an extremely flaky crust, however. Next time, I will stop blending early and add just a little water.

Comments

Hmm, I've never tried making my own pie crust, maybe it's about time. On a lard-related note, did you ever have those potato chips that are fried in lard? Wow, they're really tasty.

Tony, last night I was eating from the bar menu of Philadelphia Fish & Company and they have a lobster roll for $15. I didn't get it (I can't say I have the same obsession that you do) but as soon as I saw it I thought of you.

Melissa, I haven’t tried those chips, but I’m sure I would love them. Philadelphia Fish serves the best lobster roll in Philly, although that’s not saying much. Still, it’s fairly authentic, and I recommend it. My review is here (scroll down about halfway).

December 4, 2006

Shiroi Hana

After writing about our visit to Pod back in April, I got some sushi restaurant recommendations from Yoko and Marisa. Despite being chopstick-impaired and otherwise ignorant in the ways of the sushi bar, I decided that for my birthday dinner I would try one of these places. I picked Shiroi Hana, because it’s the easiest for me to get to, and because I have walked past it a million times, always choosing Frank Clements Tavern next door instead.

Comments

Hope you like it-- and I hope you have a happy birthday!

November 28, 2006

The Thanksgiving Post

It’s not like I need to ride the train in order to write—but it sure seems that way, and because of the Thanksgiving holiday, I haven’t been on a train until today. I present, therefore, my belated Thanksgiving post.

Our Thanksgiving turkey

Our 15 pounder.

I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. We sure did—two in fact. For the traditional meal on Thursday, we hosted dinner for my wife's family, six of us in all. I hadn't roasted a turkey in about 20 years, so I did some research. We decided not to go with the full-on brining that all the cool kids are doing, but instead followed the simpler instructions in a recent issue of Cook’s Illustrated. We started by picking up a fresh, free-range turkey from Whole Foods and then rubbing kosher salt under the skin of the bird on Tuesday night. On Thursday, we took the bird out of the refrigerator and laid it breast side down on bags of ice for an hour. The idea is to let the dark meat warm up while keeping the white meat cool, so everything cooks more evenly. Whether it was the fresh turkey, the salt treatment, or the icing, it seemed to work; I've never had better turkey. The sides were stuffing, sweet potatoes, haricot verts in garlic butter sauce, really awesome gravy, and store-bought cranberry sauce. Our guests brought the desserts.

Some of our guests are football fans, so we dragged the TV out of mothballs and plugged it in. Anne’s sister gasped when she saw the rabbit ears and without missing a beat Anne explained that we were using the latest in technology: “wireless” TV. We don’t need to be tethered to a cable anymore, but can receive programs anywhere in the house. Amazing. After a long day of football, everyone stayed for the night. Anne and I camped out in the chilly attic. It was so cold up there that I had to burn some of my poetry to keep warm (good riddance!). In the morning, we whipped up mass quantities of bacon, sausage and eggs.

To celebrate Thanksgiving with my side of the family, we delivered dinner to my sister-in-law, who is recuperating from knee surgery at the Acute Rahab unit of Jeannes Hospital. The kids were home from college and the six of us sat down to dinner in the waiting room. It was fun playing caterer and trying to duplicate Thanksgiving dinner in the hospital. We didn't bring a tablecloth or candles, but we did bring everything else we could think of—china plates and our best flatware, a coffee maker, and of course turkey with all the trimmings.

All in all, a great Thanksgiving. It’s ridiculous how much I have to be thankful for.

Comments

I'm glad you had such a good holiday - mine was good too. And I like the turkey tip!

November 14, 2006

On Pronouncing Smithwicks

We had a great time visiting Anne’s sister and her husband over the weekend. I met their newest kitty, Logan, who although shy around strangers, consented to sit for his portrait. (If you click through the cats you can see him. He’s one of the orange ones; hover the mouse to see the name.)

At lunch, Smithwicks sounded like the most tempting beer on tap, so three of us ordered it. Our waiter confirmed the order, pronouncing it “Smitticks.” When I got home, a little Googling confirmed that that is apparently the correct pronunciation; I am suitably chastened. A fine beer, too.

Back at the house, I was offered some Magic Hat “Batch 375.” I am not fond of hoppy brews, but this was the first IPA I liked or at least didn’t hate. I wonder whether this is an unusually drinkable IPA or my taste is maturing (like the rest of me, unfortunately).

Comments

Maybe its because Magic Hat does not make a bad beer?

October 19, 2006

Even the Devil Thinks I Should Diet

I started a half-hearted diet this week. I try not to do anything half-heartedly, but I love to eat, hence half-hearted was all I could manage. I was a good boy for two days, eating only yogurt and a small bag of pretzels for lunch, and then having a small dinner. Today, however, I had a cheesesteak. It cost $6.66. If that isn't a sign I should get back on my diet, I don't know what is. Of course, it was the Devil (who landed on my shoulder right after dispatching the Angel with his pitchfork) who goaded me into eating that cheesesteak in the first place. Tricksy, it is.

Comments

Water! Lots and Lots of Water helps any diet, half hearted or not.

September 4, 2006

Secret Sauce

We’ve been setting aside some of the tomato harvest (plums and Juliets) to try and make sauce.

Plum and Juliet tomatoes

Plum and Juilet tomatoes we set aside for sauce.

In the past, our homemade sauce has tasted more like tomato soup than tomato sauce. It has a delicious tomato flavor, but tastes nothing like the jar sauce we usually use (Whole Foods’ 365 brand marinara) or any other I’ve tried for that matter. For this attempt, Anne borrowed a Victorio food strainer from a friend.

Victorio food strainer

The Victorio food strainer. Whole tomatoes go in the hopper; pulpy juice comes down the chute.

We ended up with about 7 quarts of tomato juice that was very watery. After adding onions and garlic, we let it simmer for hours. When it was reduced to about 2 quarts, it was still thin, but the texture seemed right. We’re wondering does it really take that many tomatoes to make two measly quarts? What’s the secret? Anyone? Bueller?

Comments

I don't know for certain, but I suspect it has to do with the variety of tomato and its "meatiness to pulpiness" ratio. (I made that up.) That's my guess, anyway-- perhaps I should do my own research on the subject....

We always chop and drain the tomatoes and then only add the liquid as needed. Also, try frying a bit of good quality tomato paste in olive oil and chopped onions before adding the fresh tomatoes. Finely minced carrots and celery also do wonders for flavor.

Yoko, You’re right that meaty is good, which is why we grew plums this year, which are very meaty and suitable for sauce, but not a lot of meat survived the Victorio.
Jim, Some recipes we consulted specified chopping the tomatoes, but we wanted to try the Victorio. I tasted it today, and it is delicious; nothing like tomato soup. I think it needs a touch of sugar. I don’t think it’s too late to add carrots and celery; thanks for the suggestion.

It sounds like you have plenty of tomatoes to work with, and all the right machinery. I find that I usually need to add 2 cans of tomato paste, those tiny little cans.

Sparky, Jim also recommended tomato paste. Next time... I added finely diced carrots and celery and the final sauce was truly excellent, bursting with tomato flavor without tasting like tomato soup as our efforts usually did in the past.

September 1, 2006

I Feel the Need for Mead

When I think of mead, I think of a beverage so antique that it was last quaffed by Robin Hood and his Merry Men or maybe King Arthur and his posse. Mead is old, supposedly older than wine, but it is still being made. I confess I never even knew what it was until recently. Wikipedia told me more than I wanted to know, but suffice to say it is “an alcoholic drink of fermented honey and water.” I finally tasted some.

On vacation, we stopped at a “wine bar” in Rockland, Maine, called In Good Company. It was my first wine bar experience. Although I remember a place in Philly back in the Eighties called Le Wine Bar, I had never set foot in the place nor in any other wine bar since. They made us feel right at home and we were offered a list of at least 60 wines and 20 beers. There on the last page at the end of the beer list was a single mead, Lurgashall English Mead. Surprisingly, no in the place had ever tasted it, so Anne being all about honey, ordered it. Mead is neither a wine nor a beer, but frankly it's far closer to wine than beer. It smelled like honey, but was surprisingly dry in taste. Delicious. No wonder it was so popular in olden days. We ordered a cheese assortment from the tempting appetizer menu and had a merry ole time, except for some occasional urges to rob from the rich and give to the poor.

Comments

That brought back memories. When most kids in my high school were having keg parties in the woods, my posse and I were making mead in the bathtub. Ah, good times.

August 28, 2006

Vacation Reading

I took a book with me on vacation, although I didn’t expect to do much lounging around reading (and didn’t), but the urge to stop moving and settle in with a good book was often there. When we visited towns (in New Hampshire and Maine on this trip), we always made time for strolling and poking around and typically gravitated toward the bookstore. In one of the first (Village Books in Littleton, New Hampshire), I found a copy of Heat: An Amateur Cook’s Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Pasta Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher on a Hilltop in Tuscany by Bill Buford. I bought it.

I was introduced to this book two years ago when The New Yorker ran a preview (“The Pasta Station”) in the September 6, 2004 issue. I still have it—and I don’t save magazines. The article enthralled me, and when I got the book, I could hardly put it down. Now, I lap this stuff up, but even so, I think Buford would inspire anyone with his own passion for cooking and his portrayal of the ambitious perfectionism of his mentor Mario Batali. After reading Heat, you might be inspired to apprentice yourself—if only the pay were better and it wasn’t such hard work—but it’s a job you could love.

As an amateur cook with no professional experience, I have always been fascinated by what goes on in restaurant kitchens, and not just the best ones. The challenges of short-order cooking are just as interesting (to me) as those of haute cuisine. I like restaurants with open kitchens that provide a glimpse of the action. I don’t learn much by watching, though. There is a vast chasm between my fumbling around in the kitchen and the professional’s confident moves. Buford draws back the curtain by sharing a lot of inside knowledge. For example, when he was assigned to the grill, he had to learn to keep track of the state of 20 or more items at once. He broke a lot of fish learning to flip them. He learned to grill meat by feel. “You cook a steak until your ‘touch’ tells you it’s there.” It’s all fun to read about, but alas, there’s no substitute for all that practice and having Mario Batali correct your mistakes.

The book I took with me was Mac OS X Internals: A Systems Approach written by the brilliant Amit Singh. I never touched it on vacation, but have dipped into its 1600 pages a few times since then. It’s an impressive achievement and a useful one, too.

August 11, 2006

Basil Ice Cream? How About Garlic

Mac wrote recently about making basil ice cream, which I’ll bet was delicious, because now I have tasted garlic ice cream and lived to tell about it. I had some homemade garlic ice cream last week at a friend’s house. Garlic was the only flavoring; the other ingredients were the standard eggs, milk, cream, sugar... something like that; I’ve never made ice cream. If garlic works, then basil must be heavenly. Of the flavor, she writes, “it’s sweet with a light basil note to it.” That’s how the garlic ice cream tasted—mostly sweet and creamy with a subtle edge that was unmistakably garlic. It was surprisingly well-balanced if you can ever balance sugar and garlic, but then I like garlic a lot. I think what would really make my head spin around, though, is cilantro ice cream, if there is such a thing. Cilantro is one of my favorite flavors ever.

Comments

All I could find was lime-cilantro sorbet, which would probably be less creamy and tarter (but it seems like the flavors would blend well and refreshingly, no?). Anyhoo, here it is: Cilantro-Lime Sorbet

I was treated to dinner a couple years ago at a bistro in north Jersey called the Garlic Rose.

Excellent Italian fare. Everything comes with a Garlic clove, and they even have garlic ice cream. It wasn't horrible, but comparing other flavors to it isn't exactly setting the bar very high either.

July 14, 2006

A Popular Recipe

We made a delicious and extremely simple recipe the other night: Start by blanching some greens (we used chard). Heat a little oil and garlic in a pan, add raisins and pine nuts until golden brown, then add the greens. It’s a nice combination I never would have thought of. The next day, Anne happened upon a video segment from “Everyday Italian” that illustrated basically this exact recipe (with broccoli rabe for the greens). I mentioned this to a friend this morning and darned if he hadn't made the same recipe three days ago.

June 25, 2006

The Vegetable Adventure Begins

I haven’t had to work the last two Saturdays and have been taking full advantage of the time off. Last Saturday was the Blogger Meetup, which I believe broke all attendance records. Other than drinking some weird beer that tasted like cherry soda, I had a great time. Following that was a themed party/art exhibit at Ted Adams’ gallery. I brought a print which he graciously found room for and a whole mess of Texas shrimp and rice, which couldn’t compete with all the amazing edible art the creative people brought. (Look among these pix on Flickr for any tagged “Food Fetish Picture Party”) Despite being my usual mild-mannered wallflower self at both events, I still managed to meet and have speech with some really interesting people.

Last night, we made dinner with some “new” vegetables. Thursday evening, while I was at a user group meeting sharing pizza with fellow FileMaker developers, Anne picked up our first “share” of the season, a selection of ten fruits and vegetables from a nearby farm (see Anne’s post for details). Anne dug up enough recipes to use all the produce, and last night we made kale with cannellini beans from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.

Kale and cannellini

Accompanying the fried catfish is kale and cannellini garnished with lemon and parmesan.

We deliberately chose produce we’ve never eaten before just for the culinary challenge and adventure of it. For example, I’ve never tried kale before, having eaten only spinach and collards. Kale is somewhere between these two in flavor and texture and is an interesting alternative. It promises to be an interesting summer experiencing so many new flavors. I think we would be lost without Deborah Madison’s terrific cookbook, however. On Friday, we made our first recipe from her book, using homegrown arugula and spinach linguine. Both recipes we’ve prepared so far have turned out great. If anyone has any other cookbooks slanted towards vegetable cookery to recommend, please let me know. I love cookbooks almost as much as I love food.

Comments

I'm a fan of the "cherry soda beer"/Lindemanns Frambois Kreik (but I still prefer the "raspberry soda beer"/Lindemanns Frambois Lambic) - thanks for the taste!

The food looks yummy and I think I like the cookbooks more than the cooking (but that's from having a hitchen the size of a postage stamp).

June 3, 2006

Chimay is Belgian for Expensive

One more tale from the weekend. Last weekend. (Real-time blogging this ain’t.) This is about beer, which has become one of my favorite subjects in the last few years.

I’ve seen Chimay beer offered at various places, and I’ve always been curious about it, simply because it’s so expensive. Last Friday, we had dinner at Shanachie, an Irish pub in Ambler run by singer Gerry Timlin. We were feeling expansive on our big night out (earlier we had caught a set by Overunderground at the Brew Ha Ha), so we split a Chimay. According to Chimay.com, there is more than one “Chimay.” I’m not sure exactly what we got, but I think it was called Grand Reserve, and it came in a large bottle (750-ml?), so one was enough for both of us. It tasted just like Guinness to me (which I love), only more expensive. I don’t have the palate, the experience, or the vocabulary to draw any more comparisons than that. Did I mention it was expensive? It must be good, then.

The highlight of the meal wasn’t the beer or the food or even the live Irish music, but an encounter with the charming Mr. Timlin himelf. He drew a bead on me from across the room and swooped down, exclaiming, “I like your haircut!” referring to nothing more than our shared male-pattern baldness and beard. We do look a lot alike (see his picture at GerryTimlin.com), enough so that people at the next table wondered if we were brothers. I can add Gerry to the short list of celebrities I resemble (at least superficially), which includes Leonard Maltin (the movie reviewer) and local DJ John Harvey.

Sorry for that digression; back to beer. Chimay Blanche made Forbes’ list of the the 20 coolest beers. There are a few on that list I’m interested in trying. What can I say. I like lists.

Comments

I love Chimay Blue and, since discovering the brew on a European vacation (that has resulted in serious blackmail material for most of my friends) have been willing to pay the price for it. I didn't get a chance to try the blanche until a business trip to Brussels last year - it's actually pretty good. I can't say I care for their other brews too much (especially not the red, which is more readily available in this area than the blue or blanche). Using a chambord shaped glass does make a difference in taste - for the better (this is how it's served in Europe and by folks who know a heckuvalot more about fine beers than I). Just remember, never drink it from the bottle!

I've always resisted the urge to try the Belgians too. Still haven't had a Chimay. I did have 2 glasses of the Flying Fish [Delaware] Belgian Style Dubbel which was quite nice and I'm told it's a decent substitute for the real thing.

Re: the Forbes list - Boddingtons has been one of my favorite beers for some time now. It's an easy drink, a light Guinness. And I just discovered the Spaten Optamator last week and good god is it good. They have it on tap at Ludwigs Garten where they have some ot the best brews in town [even though I do hate me some hefe weisse]. The food there is good too. I was surprised at how many of the beers on the list I've had and for the most part enjoyed.

I live too close to the Beerery, err, I mean the Foodery, to not give it a try sometime soon. I've been gettiing more into the beer as I get older. And re: Ludwigs - LOVE Ludwigs, both the food and the beer!!! Have to see if they still serve the 7 oz. samplers....

Pammianne, I think our beer was a blue. While our Chimay wasn’t served in a beautiful glass, at least it was in a glass!
Albert and Ellen, I think I need to take a road trip to Ludwig’s Garten soon. By the way, a friend at work considers hefe weisse his favorite—but he’s German. I’ve never had one. Both Spatens sound interesting to me.

I love the spaten optimator. Ever since I discovered it at Ludwigs that's all I order (hey, i tend to stick to things i like) but it's definitely the chimay what I tend to order over at Monks...
Has anyone heard of Elephant? I believe it's german. it's good too.

May 29, 2006

Impress Her with Your Volume

Lots to blog about this weekend in the It’s a Wonderful Life department, but not much time to write about it. Three-day weekend, beautiful weather, getting to see old friends, lots of food...

Anne brought home a jar of honey from a local hive on Saturday that she witnessed being made. The wooden frames supporting the honeycomb are placed inside a machine like a giant salad spinner and centrifugal force extracts the honey. We were looking for something to do with this fresh honey so last night while we were making a vat of applesauce (our contribution to today’s picnic), I whipped up a batch of waffle batter. Just to explain, I like yeast waffles best, which have to be made the night before (recipe here). I just followed the recipe as I usually do, but this batch made the lightest and crispiest waffles we’ve ever had. Anne was impressed, hence her suggestion of the spammy post title.

Hope you’re having a great weekend with your honey, too.

Comments

Sounds like it was a great weekend - and am glad you had a honey-filled weekend!

Would the yeast waffle recipe work as pancakes too? I've always wondered that as I don't have a wafflemaker? It seems conceptually that it might.

Ellen, it probably would work; they’re very similar. Compared to the best pancake recipe I’ve ever tried (Better Blueberry Pancakes in July/August 2003 Cooks Illustrated), the waffle recipe uses about twice as much butter, an extra egg, and yeast instead of baking powder. Might be the best pancakes ever!

May 18, 2006

My Latest Brew Ha-Ha

Most mornings, I’m grateful for my autonomic nervou