Lobster Rolls: New York
I have a theory that the number of restaurants serving lobster rolls in a given state is directly proportional to the amount of salt-water coastline that state has. (Note that this rule only applies to the New England states!) New York has very little coastline—unless you include Long Island, in which case New York has at least as much as Connecticut. So it follows that the only lobster rolls I’ve found so far are on Long Island. (Technically, I shouldn’t say only. There are some in Manhattan as well, but you can find anything in Manhattan.) Even on Long Island, they are rare, being most common at the eastern end of the island, the part of New York closest to Maine. Natch.
Although I have over ten restaurants on my list, I’ve only visited three of them so far. One of them, however, looms large on the list, simply because it is called The Lobster Roll. What follows are reviews of the restaurants I have tried as well as a list of places I hope to visit someday. I haven’t found a great lobster roll in New York, but the rolls I have tried can trace their lineage more directly to Maine than the rolls found across the Sound in Connecticut. For example, New Yorkers have not embraced the hot lobster roll, which is so common in Connecticut.
On, then, to the Hamptons and beyond.
Long Island
The Drivers Seat
I won’t mince words—the lobster roll at The Driver’s Seat in Southampton is the best I’ve had on Long Island so far. The big qualifier, of course, is that I’ve only had like two others. Still, it’s an excellent roll. The bun itself is the authentic New England style, properly grilled, although I could have used a little more buttery flavor. The lobster salad was chunky, lightly dressed in mayo and mixed with finely-diced celery and onion. I have to say that the onion provided a little too much competition for the subtle lobster flavor, but the onion and celery were incorporated with such a light touch that it hardly mattered. All four of us had the lobster roll and no one was disappointed.
Besides the lobster roll, I have to mention how much I was charmed by the ambience and our waitress Lauren. Call it feng shui or whatever you like, the place just felt right and once I was seated at one of the outdoor tables, I didn’t want to leave. ($18.95 in July, 2007.)
The lobster roll at The Driver’s Seat in Southampton. The roll is presented on top of salad; the dish of dressing is visible at upper left. (July, 2007)
The Lobster Roll
On the way to Montauk Point (right on Route 27 a few miles east of Amagansett) there is a restaurant that is actually called The Lobster Roll Restaurant. This restaurant has been a landmark and destination for both local diners and tourists for many years. Many know it and refer to it simply as “Lunch,” because of the prominence of that word on their sign. You’d expect their signature dish to be the ultimate, but I have always been disappointed in the rolls I’ve had there over the years. Not that they’re bad or anything, but compared to the other items on the menu (try the Puffers, for example), the lobster roll is an also-ran.
My two most-recent visits were both during the month of October, in 2002 and 2004. I had a chance to reconsider my opinion formed in years past, but the visits did nothing to change my feelings. There were differences in the rolls I sampled in these two visits, but I’ll concentrate on the similarities first.
The roll is an ordinary hot dog bun, not top split. Despite the fact that the outside of this roll is nothing but crust, they still grill the roll—but on the inside. It adds a welcome touch of buttery flavor, but anyone who goes to the trouble of grilling the inside of a roll should simply order the top-split variety to begin with. The lobster meat itself is tender and chunky and of excellent quality. As good as it is, the meat labors under the burden of a lot of mayonnaise and celery.
So much for the similarities. In my last two visits, there were some inconsistencies; curious, at least, if not exactly significant. In 2002, my roll was stuffed to overflowing with fresh lobster meat. There was so much that the roll was smothered; I worked over my roll with a fork for a while until I was finally able to pick it up. In 2004, perhaps some portion controls had been instituted—the roll was simply full. I was actually grateful for the smaller quantity; overstuffed rolls score no points with me. I don’t remember how fast the service was in 2002 (it’s always been very good), but in 2004, our food came out in record time. I can’t complain about that. What was odd, though, was that the lobster salad was so cold, it tasted just like it had just come out of the freezer. Strange.
Despite my objections, The Lobster Roll’s lobster roll is a very good sandwich, just not what I’m looking for in an ideal lobster roll. I actually preferred the almost identical roll at the Clam Bar, because it lacked the large quantity of celery The Lobster Roll adds. I should also mention that The Lobster Roll charges $14.95 for their roll (probably the most expensive one I’ve seen), while the Clam Bar charges $11.50 for virtually the same thing.
The Lobster Roll serves a variety of other delicious dishes, so I would recommend them to anyone looking for great seafood in a friendly, relaxed setting. Just don’t order the lobster roll.
The Clam Bar
The Clam Bar is right down the street from The Lobster Roll. I ate there for the first time in October, 2004. The six of us had a very pleasant meal and we managed to polish off eight rolls. I don’t know whether the Clam Bar closes in bad weather, but be advised that all seating is outdoors (although the few seats at the bar are sheltered). We chose a table under one of the colorful umbrellas.
The Clam Bar. Sit at the “bar” or choose one of the tables under the umbrellas. Unlike many other places with outdoor seating, The Clam Bar features waitress service. Very civilized.
The Clam Bar’s roll is served on a plain, ungrilled hot dog bun, but the lobster salad makes up for the roll. It was not as chunky as the salad at The Lobster Roll, but it was just as tender and delicious with a better balance of mayonnaise and celery. Until I tried the roll at The Driver’s Seat, which features excellent salad and an authentic New England roll, the Clam Bar was my favorite.
The lobster roll at The Clam Bar.
Future
Sadly, that’s all the reviews I have for New York. There are quite a few places I hope to visit someday. Here’s a list, arranged by location.
Long Island, Nassau County
On Long Island in Nassau County on the south shore, Jordan’s Lobster Farm in Island Park has been recommended. We tried visiting Jordan’s in October, 2004, but couldn’t find it even after calling them for directions. These directions will get you close, at least: From the Belt Parkway, take Exit 19 “Nassau Expressway/Van Wyck Expressway/Kennedy Airport.” Follow it for several miles and look for Five Towns Mall with a K-Mart. Soon after the mall, bear right to get on 878 Nassau Expressway. Follow that for a while to the Atlantic Beach Bridge. After the bridge, you will come to a traffic circle (rotary). Go around it three-quarters of the way which will put you on Park Street. Park Street turns into Beech and then West Beech. Follow West Beech into Island Park (the cross streets are named after states). We were told to look for a movie theater, but we got as far as Lindell Boulevard and never saw it. We had to admit defeat.
There’s got to be a lobster roll somewhere on the north shore (Oyster Bay, etc), but I haven’t found one yet.
Long Island, Suffolk County, North Fork
Claudio’s in Greenport.
The Modern Snack Bar in Aquebogue.
The Lobster Roll Northside, sister location of the original Lobster Roll in Montauk), 3225 Sound Ave., Riverhead, NY (631-369-3039).
The Jedediah Hawkins Inn and Restaurant in Jamesport serves a lobster roll according to the New York Times.
Long Island, Suffolk County, South Fork
Right up the street from The Lobster Roll is Cyril’s Fish House. It was closed for the season when I visited there in October.
In Montauk proper, Duryea’s Lobster Deck and Inlet Seafood.
In Southampton, the Jobs Lane Deli at 76 Jobs Lane.
Manhattan
There are quite a few places serving lobster rolls in Manhattan these days. Sadly I have had only one at BLT Fish, and it was a disappointment. Two pioneering places I’ve seen mentioned over and over are Pearl Oyster Bar (18 Cornelia Street) and Mary’s Fish Camp, 246 West 4th Street at Charles Street (646-486-2185).
Lobster rolls have been well covered in the press. In June, 2004, New York Magazine rounded up the “best lobster rolls” in New York, including Pearl and Mary’s. New York Metro ran a roundup in August, 2005. In June, 2005 the Village Voice surveyed a handful of restaurants in Manhattan that serve lobster rolls. In July, 2005, Newsday followed suit. In the February 2, 2004 issue, the New Yorker reviewed Bongo, 299 Tenth Avenue. Here’s a second opinion on the Mermaid, Mary’s, and the Pearl. “Lonesome Hero” wrote about a meal at Pearl Oyster Bar in July, 2005. Based on what seems like overwhelming evidence, I think my first stop in New York will be Pearl. To aid in the quest, I put together a Google Map of lobster rolls in Manhattan and Brooklyn.
Black Pearl, 14 Avenue A (Houston Street) 212-358-7583. BLT Fish Shack, 21 West 17th Street 212-691-8888. Bongo Fry Shack, 240 Ninth Avenue 212-675-2692 (CLOSED). City Crab, 235 Park Avenue South (at 19th) 212-529-3800. City Lobster, 121 West 49th Street (between 6th and 7th) 212-354-1717. Ditch Plains, 29 Bedford Street at Downing Street 212-633-0202. Ed's Lobster Bar, 222 Lafayette at Spring 212-343-3236. Elmo, 156 Seventh Avenue (between 20th & 19th) 212-337-8000. Fish, 280 Bleecker St. Fresh, 105 Reade St, 212-406-1900. Grand Central Oyster Bar, Grand Central Station 212-490-6650. Kitchenette, 1272 Amsterdam Avenue 212-531-7600. The Lobster Place, Chelsea Market, 436 West 16th Street 212-255-5672 or 252 Bleecker Street between 6th & 7th Avenue 212-352-8063. The Mermaid Inn, 96 Second Avenue 212-674-5870. Penelope, 159 Lexington Ave (at 30th Street) 212-481-3800. Pershing Square, 90 E. 42nd St. between Park and Lexington (Grand Central Terminal) 212-286-9600. Shelly’s, 41 West 57th Street (between 5th and 6th) 212-245-2422. Shore, 41 Murray Street, 212-962-3750 chosen best lobster roll 2004 by the Village Voice. Tides, 102 Norfolk Street near Delancey 212-254-8855. Tracks, Penn Station, adjacent to LIRR ticket windows 212-244-6350. Ulysses, 95 Pearl Street (between Coenties Alley and Hanover Square) 212-482-0400. Urban Lobster, 240 East Houston Street (Avenue A), 212-677-2626.
Brooklyn
Bar Minnow, 444 9th Street near Seventh Avenue, Park Slope 718-832-5500. Brooklyn Fish Camp, 162 Fifth Avenue 718-783-3264. Nick’s Lobster, 2777 Flatbush Avenue 718-253-7117. Pier 116, 116 Smith Street (at Dean) 718-260-8900. Surf Bar, 139 North 6th Street (between Bedford and Berry) 718-302-4441.
Port Chester
Ebb Tide Seafood, 1 Willett Avenue.
See my list of resources for further ideas. You’re encouraged and welcome to recommend your favorite place to me. Send an email to the address at the bottom of this page. —Tony Green
Posts in “New York”
Pearl Oyster Bar Lawsuit
Albert pointed me to a story in The New York Times about a lawsuit filed by Rebecca Charles, owner of Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan, against her former sous-chef Ed McFarland for ripping off not only her recipes and menu but even her decor.
I had already heard about the striking similarities between McFarland’s restaurant and POB via a discussion on Serious Eats, but this was the first I had heard of the suit. The piece by Ed Levine provides some background on copycats of all stripes and demonstrates that this clone of POB is only just the latest in a long line of imitators.
I encountered a more modest example of the temptation to trade on Pearl Oyster Bar’s fame when I happened upon a restaurant in Charleston called *cough* Pearlz Oyster Bar. Admittedly, “pearl” is an appropriate name for an oyster bar, and if we’re feeling charitable, that’s all there is to it, but I doubt it. (The Pearl in Pearl Oyster Bar is actually an homage to Rebecca Charles’ grandmother, nothing to do with the product of oysters.)
Pearlz Oyster Bar in Charleston. Wow, what an original name! They do make a decent lobster roll, I have to admit.
BLT Fish Lobster Roll
When I learned I would be working in Gramercy Park, I knew I would be within striking distance of some of the best lobster rolls in Manhattan. I consulted my handy-dandy lobster-roll finder and noted that Pearl Oyster Bar, widely considered to serve the best roll in town, was only about 12 blocks away. The only problem was that they don’t open until 6:00. Based on Pearl’s tiny size and anticipated long lines I didn't think I could get in and out in time to be at work by 7:00.
With these time and distance constraints, I really only had one choice: BLT Fish, one of four BLT (Bistro Laurent Tourondel) restaurants in Manhattan. Not only was BLT Fish only two blocks away, it also opened at 5:30. (City Crab was closer still, but they only serve a lobster roll at lunch.)
So I was all set to have my first lobster roll in New York! I wasn’t expecting this roll to be particularly authentic. After all, this is the Big Apple where simplicity just won’t cut it, but I was intrigued to find out how the classic lobster roll would be reinterpreted. I wasn’t too concerned; while the risk of fooling with perfection looms large, any sandwich based on lobster wouldn’t have to work very hard to be great.
The three of us arrived a little after 5:30 and were almost the first customers there. Laurent Tourondel’s cookbook is displayed prominently at the door. The downstairs dining room seats about 50 at banquettes along the walls and at tables with Windsor chairs, and there is a bar in back with room for 12. We all ordered the lobster roll, which came out really fast. In a New York minute, I believe.
The roll itself was far from a cottony top-split frankfurter bun, but instead was a wonderful brioche roll of similar shape. They claimed it was grilled and it probably was, but think toasted instead; the roll showed no traces of butter or grill marks, just crispness. The lobster meat was cooked properly and had just the right tenderness and texture. Unfortunately, the dressing was a failure. I don’t know exactly what comprised this dressing, but what I tasted was mayonnaise with rather a lot of lemon juice, so much so that it was easy to identify the source of the tart flavor. Between the large quantity of dressing and the strong tang, I really couldn't taste the lobster at all; claw, tail, whatever, it was all buried in the soup. On the other hand, I had no problem with the vestigial amount of finely-diced celery. Great fries and cole slaw, though.
If the flavors in the dressing were in better balance, it would have been better, although I think there was still way too much of it. Since I didn't expect this roll to be authentic or even great, it wasn't a huge disappointment, but it hurt a little bit spending $24 for this thing. Sorry there’s no picture; my wife was using the camera that day.
